More Beer!!

Alrighty... now that my basic Beer Can Hat pattern is being circulated, I'm inspired. I just picked up some PBR and I'm ready to get started on the PBR Pimp Daddy Hat, which I made for my brother's 21st birthday lo those many years ago. Back then, as college students, we all drank it so the cans were easy to come by. These days I tend toward bottles... not sure I'll be able to stomach actually drinking the Pabst. But the cans still hold some party magic, rest assured.

I'm also working on an idea for a Rock Star Can Tiara for my birthday next week. Oh, and a granny square hat. It's way too much fun... 

Hoping to have a new pattern ready by the end of this weekend. Rock on.

Beer Can Hat – Part 3

(continued from Part 2)  See Crochet Basics for stitch descriptions and abbreviations. 


5. Make the Base (Top): 

I call this part of the hat the Base because that's where a hat usually begins. Crochet the Base of the hat from the Basic Hat Pattern. Work in the dc stitches as described until the underlined number is 4. You should end up with a nice circle that has 60 sts around the outer edge. Do not tie off.

6. Join the Base to the Crown:



Hold the Crown and the Base wrong sides together with the labels facing you and matching up the stitches as you work. Sl st into any st at top edge of Crown, *insert hook through same st and corresponding st of Base, yo and draw a loop, yo and draw a lp through both lps on hook. One Joining Sc done. Repeat from * around top of Crown, working into edge dcs only (not the stitches joining the labels). Sl st into first sc worked (60 sts total). Tie off.

[Note: At this point, the hat can make a great Beer Can Fez. Just sc around bottom edge, then make a tassel and attach to the top. Boom, Fez. Still a very respectable party hat.]

7. Make the Brim: 

Hold the Crown with the labels facing you, working from the lower edge. Stitches will be worked into each edge dc, and 2sts into the space under joining dcs (the joining dcs are laying sideways, work 2 sts around each of these bars as you work around). 

[Optional: To even out the lower edge of your Crown before adding the brim (and make working the first row of increase a little easier), you may choose to work one row of sc all around before moving on to the next step.]

Start Brim: Sl st into any edge dc, [ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc into next 6 sts (7dc total). *Work 2 dc into next st. Dc into next 7 sts. Repeat from * around, sl st into third of starting ch3.]

Repeat from [ to ] adding 1 to the underlined number for each additional row (ie. Row 2 = 8, row 3 = 9, etc) until your brim is as wide as you like. I worked 3 rows for a big sunhat brim, but I think 2 would have been better for the fisherman style I was going for. 

After you're happy with the brim, work one row of sc around (no increase). I went one step further and worked another row of sc into the same sts worked (over the top of the sc just worked), which adds a little more stability to the edge. That's totally optional of course.

Ok there you go! Please forward any photos of finished projects to me! Or better yet, fan me on Facebook and post photos there. Woohoo!

Outdoor Dog Bed

My girl Panda likes to sleep outside. In the summer, she likes sleeping on the dirt and grass... but now that it's winter and rainy, she can't really sleep in the mud. So she lays on the cement, which is not very easy on her old bones. I wanted to make her a dog bed that would be soft and weather resistant. I looked around the net for instructions and found nothing, so I thought I'd post my own How To Make an Outdoor Dog Bed project. Here you go...

Honestly, I wasn't sure what to make it out of... I went to the fabric store to see what I could find. Here's what I bought:

1 yd Vinyl upholstery fabric (54" wide)
1 yd wool/polyester twill fabric (54" wide)
1 22" zipper
Heavy duty sewing machine needles

Starting with the vinyl, fold the fabric in half short-ways, to make the widest rectangle you can and measure it. Mine came out to 27" across by 36" long. Fold it right sides together so the edges match all around. On one short end, mark with a pen where your zipper will start and stop. Using 1/2" seam allowance, sew around 2 edges. On the zipper side, sew only where your zipper will not be. At the corners, reinforce the stitching by running backwards once then continuing on.

To add the zipper, line up the zipper's outer edge with the fabric edge (where we left it open) and sew 1/4" seam all the way from one end of the zipper fabric to the other. Repeat for the other side of the zipper. Rather than using my zipper foot (which let the fabric slide all over), I used my regular foot and moved the needle to the left. I did not bother with top stitching. (Use the diagrams inside the zipper package if you're not familiar with how to sew a zipper.)

Turn it right side out and the outer part of the dog bed is complete.

For the inner case, I used a heavy wool/poly twill fabric. Wool will naturally repel moisture, and the polyester will add durability. Again, fold the fabric short-ways for a wide rectangle. Cut to measure the same as the vinyl cover. Sew around 2 sides and 1/2 of the third side. Leave the last 1/2 for stuffing. Turn right side out.

To stuff my dog bed, I used two funky old bed pillows my boyfriend inexplicably wouldn't throw out. Two fit into my case perfectly. I also took some old t-shirts, cut them into pieces and added them as extra filler.

To close the inner case, fold the edges inward and top stitch from the outside. You may opt to add a zipper to the inner case as well, for ease of washing. I am hoping mine will stay relatively dry inside and I won't need to wash it.

Now fit the inner case into the vinyl case and zip up. Boom! Quick and easy, just like we like. I couldn't get Panda to lay down for the pic, she thought we were playing. But I think the size is just right. Victory!

I Heart 70s Craft Books

(From my stash of little articles written about 10 yrs ago... I've not changed my mind. In fact the 70s styles are even more popular today. Woot.)

Let's not forget those awesome days of yore...when crafting and needlework were having a real heyday.  No, not the Renaissance, nor the Victorian era, classic though they may be. I am referring to the colorful and creative 1970s.  I am a child of that period, and as such took part in nearly every creative whim of my parents...latch hook, crochet, needlepoint, crewel. And do I recall some of those cellophane dipped flowers and some sort of toxic resin plaques? Yes, those were the days. Funk was the norm and looking through my mom's craft book collection was so much rainy day fun. 

 "Granny Square Vest Family" painted from a 70s crochet pattern booklet

I have now amassed my own impressive collection of craft books, also of the 70s variety.  Most of these (surprise) relate to working with fibers in some way.  I just can't rave enough about how much I love those books. They are full of techniques, histories, creativity and inspiration. The crochet books are without a doubt the most interesting I've found...I have books on crochet and needlework as sculpture and fine art, wearable art, clothing design and the usual pattern magazines and booklets.  Some may whine about the outdated styles available in these oldies, but really the styles are very interesting and back in fashion. Usually these can be updated simply by altering the color scheme (even too much for me at times).  Not only that, but where else can you find a pattern for 4 types of crochet sandals? 

Here's an example to illustrate my point. A while ago I decided it was time to own a good overall book about quilting. I wanted a good source book with info about each of the common techniques.  So, I moseyed to my favorite used bookstore, which has exceptional art and craft sections.  I had noticed on previous visits the volume of quilting books, and so settled down on the milk crate to do some searching for the end-all-be-all of quilting books.

Well, let me tell you...I looked through all the modern type books and was sorely saddened by the lack of basic instruction and creativity in these books.  They were generally ten projects for your cutesy home and I thought they really lacked room for experimentation. When I did find the book I desired it was a 70s type...no surprise. This one has it all: numerous methods of quilting including trapunto, piecework basics, borders, cutwork, appliqué and cultural styles like Hawaiian and Amish.  Of course, there are projects included for each process and style. There's even a whole chapter devoted to designing your own quilt, step by step. Now THAT'S what I call a craft book. And it was much less expensive than the modern ones.

So, there you have it. I love the 70s books. They are well written, colorful, creative, stylish, cheap and available everywhere. Now, I'm off to read about granny squares...

Easy Crochet Slippers Pattern

OK, as promised... more free crochet patterns. I wish I had better photos for you, but I used to sell these printed out, so the photos are small. Unfortunately I don't have the original pics or samples. I made these years ago. As always, feel free to contact me for help if you get stuck. Enjoy.

Bohemian Mermaid Crochet Pattern
 Warm &Comfy Slippers
 

 

Description: Simple and warm house slippers with optional non-slip soles, size adult large.

Materials: 4oz worsted yarn, K hook, rubber shelf liner (optional). 




Pattern:  
Instructions are for adult size. Work 2 strands worsted tog (1 or 2 colors as you wish) throughout. Make 2:

Rnd1: (Toe) Ch 3 (counts as 1^st hdc here and throughout). Working into 1^st ch made, 8 hdc. Sl st into 3^rd ch of ch3 (9 sts total).

Rnd 2: Ch 3. Hdc into same st. Work 2 hdc into each st around. Sl st into 3^rd ch of ch3 (18 sts total).

Rnd 3: Ch 3. Hdc into same st, hdc into next st. *Work 2 hdc into next st, hdc into next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st into 3^rd ch of ch3 (27 sts total).

Rnd 4-9 (6 rnds): *Ch 3. Hdc into next st and into each st around.
Sl st into 3^rd ch of ch3 (27 sts total). Repeat from * for each rnd.

Row 10-18 (9 rows): (Start mouth) Ch 3. Hdc into next st and into each st across. Ch 3, turn. Repeat from * for each row, ending with ch1. Do not finish off.

 

Finishing:

Mouth edge: Working along edges of rows just worked, work 26 sc, ending in opposite corner of work. Do not finish off.


Heal seam: Continue working sc down folded heal edge, matching sts and working through both layers, until 2 sts remain to be worked. Proceed as follows: Insert hook into next st (both layers) and draw a loop. Repeat (3 lps on hook). Yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook. Finish off. 


Non-slip Sole (optional): Make a paper pattern by tracing foot and evening out into a long light bulb shape. Cut ¼" inside lines drawn. Fold lengthwise to check symmetry, trim as necessary. It should measure approx 10" long, 4" at its widest, 3" at its narrowest. Pin pattern to rubber shelf lining (with stripes going vertically) and cut 2. Pin to slipper with wide end at toe and narrow end at heal. Hand stitch using whipstitch and doubled thread. 
 

Etsy again.

Yay! I've been working hard to get my online listings going again... and my first round of etsy stuff is up. Oh, let me put up some sort of cool gadget.

Jeesh. The photos, as always, are a challenge. The light has to be perfect to see the colors properly & clearly. I thought it was bright enough outside even though it was partly cloudy... I mean, I had to squint! But the pics were still quite dark. So I had to mess around with brightening them and tweaking some of the colors. Ah well, I'll get better and faster as I go.


Anyway, my goal is to list 10 items per week on etsy, and concurrently update my regular web site with the new photos. This week the goal was 20 things, to get started. Done.


Oh and I have become completely addicted to the etsy forums. I'm learning a ton about all sorts of craft business stuff, not just more about etsy. It's quite a bit of craft nerd fun. A couple examples... there is a great wholesaling thread going, started by the owner of a shop who answers lots of helpful questions. I found this page of neato etsy aps, which was very helpful as well.

Crafty Crafty

Ok well I get distracted...I'll try harder. 


Well, holiday craft shows are done. I only did one (as usual) which was the Arcata Holiday Craft Market. I'll call this year's a success. Sales were pretty good... AND I finally connected with the owner of The Rocking Horse and now have bamboo onesies and some kid's T-shirts in the shop. I'm way excited about this, thinking it's a first step to getting all my little Mermaid dresses in there too! 

Ok, now that I have left yet another dayjob (yay!!)... I have plenty of time to work on Mermaid projects around here. My plan for this particular blog is to start posting some more craft projects. I came across my old teaching plans for kids (well, they were for disabled adults, but work for kids), which has tons of neat little projects of all sorts. 


Of course I also have some more crochet patterns, a couple silk painting projects, simple beading... and ideas for more stuff. I'd like to eventually offer supply kits for these projects as well. Woohoo! 

A girl's got to keep busy!






 

I'm still here.

Well, I've been busy ok? sorta. Stupid dayjob tends to take over my life... luckily, only for a few more days and it's back to Mermaid land. 

After TG, I have about 2 weeks until the Arcata Holiday Market at the Community Center 12/12 & 12/13. I'm working on some new wire wrapped jewelry, which I'm excited to play with. Also been fooling with some polymer clay beads. Fun fun.

Oh and I now have some goods in the mall store Schatzi's Hidden Treasures. I had some clothing there last year... so this year I'm back. Not tons of stuff, but ponchos, ladies knit tops, skirts, pants and little girl dresses. I haven't met a little girl yet who doesn't love a mermaid dress.


So anyway... I should be around here more often once stupid dayjob is done. Yippee!!

Basic Hat Pattern

Ok, here you go... this is my own pattern for a basic crocheted cap, including adjustments for size and stitch variations. Rock on!  See Crochet Basics for stitch descriptions and abbreviations.

Bohemian Mermaid
Crochet Pattern

Basic Hat

Description: Simple, flexible instructions for a basic cap using any stitch design, sized for anyone in the family.

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, I or J hook.

Pattern: Instructions are for average adult/teen size fitted cap. The base is worked in dc. After working the base as described, any stitch can be used for body. Work is not turned. Change colors as desired.

Base:

Start: Ch 4. Sl st into first ch to form loop.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc here and throughout). Work 9 dc into ch4 loop (10dc total). Sl st into 1^st dc (3^rd ch of ch3).

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc into same st. Work 2 dc into next st and each st around. Sl st into 1^st dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc into same st and into next st. *Work 2 dc into next st, dc into next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st into 1^st dc.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc into same st, dc into each of next 2 sts. *Work 2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Sl st into 1^st dc.

Successive Rnds: Continue as in rnd 4, adding 1 st to the underlined portions for each successive rnd. Work until the underlined number is 4.

**For a child:

1. Work rnds 1 - 4 (rnds 1 - 3 for an infant), or

2. Work as above substituting sc for dc (remember to adjust chs too), or

3. Work as above substituting G hook and sport weight yarn.

** For a larger head:

1. Work until the underlined number is 5, or

2. Work as above using K hook and bulky or doubled worsted weight yarn.

**For a tighter base stitch:

1. Work as above substituting hdc for dc, or

2. Work base using sc instead of dc BUT to maintain the correct size: after each round, work one round of sc without increasing, then return to next rnd as written.

Body:

The body of the hat is worked one st to a st (no increases), creating a tube. Work about 5-7 rows of dc for a short cap, 12-15 for a folded brim. Adjust if other sts will be used.

To work hat body in a simple sc (hdc, dc): Ch1(2, 3) and work 1 st into each st around. Sl st to 1^st st. Repeat. Many interesting striped patterns can be achieved by alternating colors and stitches by rows.

**To work hat body in any other stitch pattern:

Once the base is complete, count the number of sts in the last round. If you follow the above adult/teen instructions, you should have 60 sts in the last round. Choose a stitch pattern that has repeating sections that go into 60 evenly (ie, a shell st repeats a shell every 6 sts, so 60/6 works out perfectly).

To make adjustments: Divide the # of sts in the rnd by the # of sts in the pattern st. Whatever is left over should be adjusted either in the last rnd of the base or the first rnd of the body.

For example: My body st pat repeats every 8 sts. 60/8 leaves 4 sts too many in my base row. I can either skip 4 sts throughout the last row of the base (spread them out so no one can tell)...OR I can work the first rnd of my pat st by working 2 sts into the same st at 4 points throughout rnd (still, no one can tell).

Crochet Basics: A Handy Reference

Pattern Abbreviations:

Ch: chain

Ch st: chain stitch

Dc: double crochet

Dec: decrease

Dtr: double treble crochet

Hdc: half double crochet

Inc: increase

Lp: loop

Pat: pattern

Prev: previous

RS: right side

Rep: repeat

Rnd: round

Sc: single crochet

Sk: skip

Sl st: slip stitch

Sp: space

St: stitch

Tog: together

Tr: treble crochet

WS: wrong side

Yo: yarn over hook

Crochet Stitches:

Slip Stitch: Insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop through work and through loop on hook.

Chain Stitch: Make slip knot and place loop on hook. Yo and pull a loop through loop on hook.

Single Crochet: Insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (2loops on hook). Yo and draw a loop through both loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet: Yo and insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Double Crochet: Yo and insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through last 2 loops on hook.

Treble Crochet: Yo twice and insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (4 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops at a time until only one loop remains on hook.

Changing Colors:

Work last stitch of color 1 to the point of having last 2 loops on hook. Leaving 2-3" tails, cut color 1 thread and tie color 2 thread close to lps on hook. Pick up color 2, draw final loop of stitch. Continue as directed, working thread ends into sts as you go.