Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Basic Hat Pattern

Ok, here you go... this is my own pattern for a basic crocheted cap, including adjustments for size and stitch variations. Rock on!  See Crochet Basics for stitch descriptions and abbreviations.




Bohemian Mermaid
Crochet Pattern


Basic Hat

Description: Simple, flexible instructions for a basic cap using any stitch design, sized for anyone in the family.

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, I or J hook.

Pattern: Instructions are for average adult/teen size fitted cap. The base is worked in dc. After working the base as described, any stitch can be used for body. Work is not turned. Change colors as desired.

Base:
Start: Ch 4. Sl st into first ch to form loop.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc here and throughout). Work 9 dc into ch4 loop (10dc total). Sl st into 1st dc (3rd ch of ch3).

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc into same st. Work 2 dc into next st and each st around. Sl st into 1st dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc into same st and into next st. *Work 2 dc into next st, dc into next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st into 1st dc.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc into same st, dc into each of next 2 sts. *Work 2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Sl st into 1st dc.

Successive Rnds: Continue as in rnd 4, adding 1 st to the underlined portions for each successive rnd. Work until the underlined number is 4.

**For a child:
1. Work rnds 1 - 4 (rnds 1 - 3 for an infant), or
2. Work as above substituting sc for dc (remember to adjust chs too), or
3. Work as above substituting G hook and sport weight yarn.

** For a larger head:
1. Work until the underlined number is 5, or
2. Work as above using K hook and bulky or doubled worsted weight yarn.
**For a tighter base stitch:
1. Work as above substituting hdc for dc, or
2. Work base using sc instead of dc BUT to maintain the correct size: after each round, work one round of sc without increasing, then return to next rnd as written.


Body:
The body of the hat is worked one st to a st (no increases), creating a tube. Work about 5-7 rows of dc for a short cap, 12-15 for a folded brim. Adjust if other sts will be used.

To work hat body in a simple sc (hdc, dc): Ch1(2, 3) and work 1 st into each st around. Sl st to 1st st. Repeat. Many interesting striped patterns can be achieved by alternating colors and stitches by rows.

**To work hat body in any other stitch pattern:
Once the base is complete, count the number of sts in the last round. If you follow the above adult/teen instructions, you should have 60 sts in the last round. Choose a stitch pattern that has repeating sections that go into 60 evenly (ie, a shell st repeats a shell every 6 sts, so 60/6 works out perfectly).
To make adjustments: Divide the # of sts in the rnd by the # of sts in the pattern st. Whatever is left over should be adjusted either in the last rnd of the base or the first rnd of the body.
For example: My body st pat repeats every 8 sts. 60/8 leaves 4 sts too many in my base row. I can either skip 4 sts throughout the last row of the base (spread them out so no one can tell)...OR I can work the first rnd of my pat st by working 2 sts into the same st at 4 points throughout rnd (still, no one can tell).

Crochet Basics: A Handy Reference


Pattern Abbreviations:

Ch: chain

Ch st: chain stitch

Dc: double crochet

Dec: decrease

Dtr: double treble crochet

Hdc: half double crochet

Inc: increase

Lp: loop

Pat: pattern

Prev: previous

RS: right side

Rep: repeat

Rnd: round

Sc: single crochet

Sk: skip

Sl st: slip stitch

Sp: space

St: stitch

Tog: together

Tr: treble crochet

WS: wrong side

Yo: yarn over hook


Crochet Stitches:


Slip Stitch: Insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop through work and through loop on hook.


Chain Stitch: Make slip knot and place loop on hook. Yo and pull a loop through loop on hook.


Single Crochet: Insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (2loops on hook). Yo and draw a loop through both loops on hook.


Half Double Crochet: Yo and insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.


Double Crochet: Yo and insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through last 2 loops on hook.


Treble Crochet: Yo twice and insert hook into designated st, yo and draw a loop (4 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops at a time until only one loop remains on hook.



Changing Colors:

Work last stitch of color 1 to the point of having last 2 loops on hook. Leaving 2-3" tails, cut color 1 thread and tie color 2 thread close to lps on hook. Pick up color 2, draw final loop of stitch. Continue as directed, working thread ends into sts as you go.


Saturday, September 26, 2009

Beer Can Hat - Part 2

(Continued from Part 1) See Crochet Basics for stitch descriptions and abbreviations. 

Note: I used tall cans for my sample hat, adjustments for using regular size cans shown in [brackets].
 

3. Edge the Can Labels

Basically, the cans will be edged just like a granny square. 5 dc into each corner, and 3 dc into each hole along the sides. For those who prefer a written pattern, here you go:

Sl st into corner hole, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work 2 dc into same hole. *Work 3 dc into next hole and each hole across. Work 5 dc into corner hole. Repeat from * around label, ending with 2 dc into starting hole. Sl st into 2nd of ch 2 from beginning. Tie off.




Repeat this for each can label.



4. Join the Labels

This part is a little bit tricky. You will be joining the pieces while holding them back-to-back, one is in Front, one is in Back. The Front label will be worked by inserting your hook from the front, the Back label will be worked by inserting your hook from the back. I find it helpful to hold the Front label a little lower than the Back label while I work.




To join these, we will use a sort of joined sc, hdc, and dc to get an A-line shape to our hat. I can't describe it much better than that, so I'll defer to my written pattern instructions:

A) Starting in the top left corner of Front label, sl st into 3rd of 5 dc. Insert hook into same st, *yo and draw a loop, insert hook into corresponding st of Back label, yo and draw a loop (3 lps on hook), yo and draw a loop through all lps on hook. Insert hook into next st on Front label. Repeat from * across next 5[2] sts (6[3] sts total).

**Yo, insert hook into next Front st and draw a loop, yo, insert hook into corresponding Back st and draw a loop. Yo and draw a loop through all 5 lps on hook. Repeat from ** for next 2[5] sts (3[6] sts total).

***
Yo, insert hook into next Front st and draw a loop (3 lps on hook), yo and draw a loop through 2 lps on hook. Yo, insert hook into corresponding Back st and draw a loop, yo and draw loop through 2 lps on hook (3 lps on hook). Yo and draw lp through all lps on hook. Repeat from *** across, working last st into 3rd of 5 dc in corner. Tie off.



Repeat from A) until all labels are joined together.


If you want to stop here with the Beer Can Crown, simply sc along the top and bottom edges to finish, covering the yarn ends as you go. Boom, done.


Or, stay tuned for Part 3 finishing the hat top and brim.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Beer Can Hat - Part 1



I'm going to attempt to share with the world my pattern for the coveted Beer Can Hat. Some years ago I started making these and spread them around to many friends and unsuspecting acquaintances. I believe they originated during the 70s cheesy crafts era, which I completely adore.

Many a birthday party have I attended bringing a 6 pack of beer, a skein of yarn, a couple compact tools... and a few hours later, left the host with a special party hat and gift made right before his drunken eyes. Now YOU can be that fascinating craft nerd, amazing your friends at parties. Or just drinking and crocheting at home. 


All told, this project takes me about 2 hrs if I'm really paying attention… up to maybe 3 or 4 hours if there's beer and distraction involved.

Part 1 covers materials & preparing the cans.
Part 2 will cover edging and joining the cans into a Beer Can Crown.
Part 3 will cover adding the top and brim to finish the beer Can Hat.


 
The Cans:

You will need 5 can labels for one hat. Assuming your cans have two labels on them, front and back, you will need 3 cans (if your cans have only 1 label each, you will need 5 cans). 





Choose cans that have colorful or interesting labels... I have used Kern's, Miller High Life (w/ the girl on the moon), Pabst Blue Ribbon, Harley Davidson Beer, Schlitz Malt Liquor and Guinness. Coors is rather boring, but it's what I had available. Obviously the cans should be relatively clean.







The Other Supplies:

- Yarn - one 3oz skein in a color to match your cans
- Crochet Hook - size H or I
- Utility Scissors
- regular household scissors will work fine
- Paper Hole Punch
- very inexpensive at any office supply or drug store



Note: I used tall cans for my sample hat, adjustments for using regular size cans will be shown in [brackets].
 
 
1. Cut the Cans

*Safety Note* Yes, you should be careful while cutting the cans. Jagged edges could scratch or poke you. But once the cans are cut smoothly along the edges, they are not sharp at all. You will not slice up your fingers doing this.

To start cutting the cans, choose an area that won't affect your label (such as the warning/bar code area) and stab through the can with one end of your scissors. 



Continue to cut up the side, and then along the top edge of the can all the way around. Do the same for the other side.




You will have the body of the can minus the top and bottom ends. Cut the two labels apart.


 

Now cut around the labels, leaving no jagged edges and rounding the corners as you go. The edges should be as straight as possible to keep a rectangular shape. Cut as large a label as you can without showing any of the warnings or small print.

Yes, the labels should be close to the same size and shape, but don't get too finicky about it. Imperfections will be covered by the yarn and will not make much difference in the end.  



2. Punch the Holes

Using the paper hole punch, punch holes into the can labels as shown. The holes should be about 1/4" from the edge. Place one hole at each corner, then a total of 5 [4] holes along the tall sides, 4 holes along the short sides. Space them as evenly as possible, about 1/2" apart.



Again, you probably don't need to get out your ruler here. Eyeballing the placement will be good enough for a lovely result.



Move on to Part 2!